8: The Trek to Pangsau Pass

“Let me introduce you to my pair of trusted yaks. They are used to ferrying tourists. They will carry our baggage, give us the much-needed warmth and provide fuel for our fire”. The Sherpa led them to the yaks - Ayk with the blue-collar and Kay with the red-collar. The yaks had just finished a large sedge meal, which is a grassy plant and their favourite.

“Mayuka and Kiana can ride Kay while Igashu and the baggage will be on Ayk”, said the Sherpa.

“We thought we would be trekking on foot and not riding on a yak’s back”, said Igashu.

“Son, living in Arunachal, where there are many hills, you might think that climbing 4000 feet is not such a great height. But there are some steep sections on our route to the Pangsau Pass. The Pass itself lies on the crest of the Patkai Hills. It is not an easy climb, and you will be tired even before climbing halfway up. Also, remember, climbing up is only half the journey. Climbing down is equally difficult”.

“Yes, the Sherpa is right. We still have a long way to go after the Patkai Hills. And I have never ridden a yak before. It will be fun”, said Mayuka.

Looking at the yak’s large horns, Mayuka and Kiana stood at a safe distance and handed over their backpacks to Igashu.

“Do not fear. I brought up Ayk and Kay from the time they were born. Their mother died at birth. They will not harm you and will even be ready to lay down their lives to protect you. Trust me. Riding a yak is easier than riding a horse”.

For Zino, it was love at first sight. He playfully ran toward Ayk and Kay and rubbed himself on their furry legs.

The Sherpa had already strapped his baggage on Ayk’s back. Now he strapped the three additional backpacks of Igashu, Mayuka, and Kiana. He lovingly stroked Ayk and Kay’s heads and spoke to them in a strange language made up of clicking sounds, after which he helped Igashu sit on Ayk’s back and the girls on Kay’s back.

“Sherpa, you said the yaks provide fuel for the fire. How do they do that”? Asked Kiana.

Looking at Igashu, the Sherpa replied, “surely you know the answer to that”.

“Yes, I do. The yak’s droppings serve as fuel. I saw this when I used to go to my uncle’s house in Tawang. We seldom see yak’s in the Dibang Valley, though”.

The Patkai Hills was the yak’s home ground. They loved trekking the mountains with the Sherpa, especially this one to the Pangsau Pass, the favourite haunt of the tourists. Ayk led the way with the Sherpa walking by the side of Kay, close behind.

“Sherpa, please tell us some stories of the Yeti. I am sure you have many exciting tales to tell”, pleaded Mayuka.

“Tell us your first experience of how you saw the Yeti. Did you get scared? What was the Yeti doing”? Asked Kiana excitedly.

“Yes, I remember that day very well. It was a long time ago. I was a young boy then. It was a cold day, and a gentle breeze was lazily drifting down the mountain. A light fog hid the mountain peaks. I had taken a few sheep up the hill to graze on the fresh green grass. As I was dusting off the thin layer of snowflakes from my jacket, I felt I was going to suffocate. I couldn’t breathe. A terrible stench was all around me. And then I heard this blood-curdling scream”.

Mayuka and Kiana instinctively reached out for Sherpa’s hand. Igashu riding Ayk, dropped back to hear the Sherpa’s story.

“Who screamed? What did you see”? Asked Mayuka and Kiana together.

“I looked around but couldn’t see anything. The sheep sensed danger and ran down the hill. I stood still in fear, not knowing what to do. And then I heard the scream again. At the same time, I felt dizzy and fell to the ground, choking from the terrible stench. The stink seemed to overpower me. Then, I saw this huge being, the Yeti, the Tiragyoui. Yeti is part man and part animal”.

In rapid succession, Kiana asked, “what was the Yeti doing? What did he look like? Did he see you”?

Looking visibly alarmed, Mayuka asked, “why didn’t you run down along with the sheep”?

“I don’t know. The Yeti was a huge, hairy creature – half man and half ape. He was fighting a black Himalayan bear. Every time the Yeti hit the bear, he let out a scary scream. I had never seen such a hair-raising sight. And then suddenly, the Yeti let go of the bear and turned. He saw me. I took a few steps downhill, ready to flee. I looked back to see if he was following me”.

“And was he chasing you?” Asked Igashu, wondering if the Yeti existed after all.

“It was a strange sight that I saw. The Yeti did not chase me. No. In fact, he remained rooted in the same spot. But I played safe and ran downhill. I described what I experienced to the elders in the village. And that’s when I discovered how lucky I was. When a person encounters the Yeti, the person needs to see the Yeti first and not the other way around”.

More curious than ever, Igashu asked, “why is it important for the person to see the Yeti first”?

“Because if the Yeti sees you first, then there is no hope. You will remain rooted to the ground. Long enough for the Yeti to get to you”.

“Oh no! I would not want anyone to be in such a situation”, said Mayuka.

“Yes, no one should. It’s important that all our senses are fully alert when trekking in the mountains. But don’t worry about the Yeti. He is monstrous, but we Sherpas consider him our protector. You will not see him on the Patkai Hills. You might see him if you climb the higher ranges at 15000 feet and over”.

“We have now reached the most challenging part. See how steep the climb has become. Even the yaks have slowed down”, said the Sherpa.

A sudden icy wind came rolling down the hill. It hit them with such ferocity that the yaks stopped in their track. They instinctively turned around to protect their riders from the freezing onslaught.

The Sherpa quickly led the yaks to the shelter of the adjoining woods. “Let us take cover here for a while. The wind will die down as suddenly as it appeared”.

“The wind has stung my face so badly that my nose has become numb”, cried Kiana, rubbing it with both hands.

“Let’s camp here a short while”, saying that the Sherpa pulled out a folded tent from his baggage. With Igashu giving a helping hand, the tent was rigged quickly. All four huddled in, and Sherpa started a small fire inside using the yak droppings he had stowed in a bag. The fire warmed them, and the Sherpa passed around clay pots into which he poured warm yak milk from his weathered flask.

The wind had died down in the meantime. Igashu and the girls felt refreshed and were ready to resume their climb. The Pangsau Pass was only a short distance away.