11: Back Over the Pangsau Pass

The Sherpa, Igashu, Mayuka and Kiana, along with Zino, Ayk and Kay, set forth on their return journey to Dibang Valley.

“Come, let us head for Nampong Village. It is only a short distance away. I have a good friend there. We can rest in his house for the night and resume our journey early morning”, said the Sherpa.

The late afternoon sun shone brightly in the clear blue sky as the Sherpa and the yaks walked briskly over the Pangsau Pass. The gentle, cold breeze and the snow-capped Himalayan peaks in the distance lifted their spirits.

“Can you tell us something about Nampong Village”? Asked Mayuka.

“It’s a long story. For now, all I want you to know is that this village is inhabited by a peace-loving Naga tribe called the Tangsas. They are experts in weaving and making handicrafts”, explained the Sherpa

“Perfect! We can take some souvenirs and small gifts back home”, said Kiana excitedly.

“My friend Koso makes the finest carvings and beautiful clothing. You will find a wide selection. He and his wife will be happy to serve us dinner”, said the Sherpa.

Looking at her map, Mayuka said, “this Lido Road connects Nampong to Patkai Hills and beyond. The small note on my map says it was called the Hells Pass. Why”? Asked Mayuka.

“A long time back, this area was a rugged terrain with deep valleys and cliffs. Countless men died, creating this road. That’s why it is called Hell’s Pass. This road begins in Assam, runs through Nampong onto the Pangsau Pass and finally to China via Myanmar.” explained the Sherpa

The children listened to Sherpa’s story and began imagining what the area would have looked like before the construction of the road.

“Look there, that must have been a valley. See how the road slopes down steeply”, said Mayuka.

The Sherpa noticed that Mayuka was nudging Kia closer and closer to the undergrowth on the side of the road. He shouted a warning, “don’t go close to the thick undergrowth. It’s too dangerous”.

Hardly had the Sherpa’s warning been delivered, Zino darted across the street to the thick undergrowth on the side. Zino’s keen sense of smell had picked up the scent of the leopard. Mayuka and Kiana yelled at Zino to come back, but he disappeared out of sight. Ayk and Kay also appeared agitated.

There was a brief disturbance in the undergrowth. A few moments later, a leopard was observed, tossed in the air. Next, Zino came charging out of the undergrowth, seemingly gloating over his victory.

Everyone felt a sense of relief at the narrow escape. The Sherpa, Igashu, Mayuka and Kiana were in total awe of Zino. Even Ayk and Kay appeared pleased with Zino.

“Zino deserves a big treat when we get to Nampong”, said Mayuka.

“Yes, of course. Koso will give Zino something special to have after he hears of Zino’s brave deed”, said the Sherpa.

“There, we can see the village at the end of the road”, said Kiana.

Koso’s house was at the beginning of the village. He was delighted to see his old friend Tenzing, the Sherpa. He clapped his hands loudly, and a moment later, his wife appeared. She, too, greeted Tenzing warmly. Igashu, Mayuka and Kiana were also given a warm welcome. Koso was amazed to hear about Zino’s bravado. “Yes, Zino does need a treat. I have just the right meal for him. Freshly cut pumpkin, squash and spinach. Mountain goats love this treat. And large leafy radishes for Ayk and Kay”.

Koso’s wife served the popular butter tea with vegetable momos as starters. This was followed by Thukpa, a thick noodle soup and the staple Sherpa flatbread called Kur. She was curious to know about their adventures. When she heard about the incident at the Lake of No Return, she scolded Tenzing for being so foolish.

“A place with strange noises and scary creatures was not for children. Tenzing, you should have known better”.

Tenzing was at a loss for words and expectantly looked at his friend Koso who immediately came to his rescue. Koso calmly addressed his wife. “My dear, some emotions attract opposites. Some things may be dangerous, but we still do it because it’s fun”.

Kiana whispered to Mayuka, “yes, we did get scared but didn’t we enjoy every minute of it”? Igashu caught on to what Kiana whispered and slightly rotated his head left and right, indicating not to pass any comments.

After the delicious meal, Koso took Igashu and the girls to his large workshop behind the house. He proudly showed various products made with his team of skilled workers. Blankets, colourful skirts, ceremonial shawls and waistbands were woven in a mix of cotton and plant fibres.

“What bright colours. How do you manage such lovely colours”? Asked Mayuka, running her hands over the shawls and skirts.

“We use natural dyes made from jungle creepers and certain plants. Black, red and green are the primary colours extracted. Other shades are obtained, mixing the primary colours”, said Koso, pointing to the corner where the extraction was done.

“Let’s go to the next room. Our products are sent to various parts of India and Myanmar”, said Koso proudly. “Since you’re heading home, I want you to take gifts for your family and friends. Pick up whatever you like”, he said large-heartedly.

The children were amazed to see the wide selection of painted wooden articles, potteries and other items made from bamboo and cane.

Igashu, Mayuka and Kiana happily picked up some small gifts, after which Koso presented each of them with a colourful shawl and a woven waistband. When they returned to Koso’s house, they were happy to see three mattresses neatly laid for them to sleep on.

At last, a roof over their head and a mattress on the floor. It reminded them that they were almost near home.